Friday, July 27, 2007

New York City Restaurant Reviews and Other Matters of the Hat

By Fred Belinsky

In NYC for The Headwear Association’s 98th annual dinner at Tavern on the Green in Central Park, I was enthusiastic about trying a restaurant that I had seen reviewed some months previously in the NY Times. Favoring vegetarian cuisine for the past 16 years (James Rachel’s 1990 book CREATED FROM ANIMALS: The Moral Implications of Darwinism sealed this decision back then), I have been waiting for what I knew would arrive some day- Vegetarian Fine Dining. So on the evening of St. Patrick’s Day, the day after the association dinner (good event but, at best, middling meal at T on the G), I set off for the East Village and Heirloom.

I wasn’t disappointed. When one enters most vegetarian restaurants, what is almost always palpable is the fidelity of the staff to the work. It feels good to be at a business where the people working there have a passion for what they are doing. In the case of vegetarian restaurants, for most staff, it is also a philosophical conviction that they are doing is the right thing.* So in Heirloom, you are met by hip, attractive, friendly well-dressed hostesses, wait persons, bar tenders, with whom you are on the same wave length (there’s also something sexy about this – but unfortunately I am old enough to be these people’s father). They might be cut from the same cloth as the jeans and t-shirt people that you encounter in most veggie joints, but here we’re all playing dress-up – it’s fun, it’s sophisticated, the décor is cool, it’s all well done. It’s also an important statement – Vegetarianism** is not mutually exclusive from fine dining.

On to the food: I’m seated with a good view of the bar and the front door – I’m catching the scene – I am happy. The wine menu is interesting, but California is conspicuously absent as are the great pinot noirs of Oregon. I’m not sure what this is about (I hope not another example of pretentious New York demonstrating their imprudent superiority by dissing California in favor of Europe– I’m giving them the benefit of the doubt). The two different reds I ordered (glasses) were good – the quality was right for the price. The menu is simple – a good idea - divided into “First Course” and “Second Course”. This works very well as one doesn’t need a lot of choices as one can eat everything on the menu. Vegetarians are usually eliminating four-fifths or more of a menu right out of the gate in most restaurants. So after seriously considering “Truffled Portobello Crostini with Apple Celeric Compote: balsamic vinegar reduction, truffle corstini and lavender honey”, I go with “Sous-Vide Poached Egg with Crispy Sweet Potato: meyer lemon foam, greens and horseradish oil”. Both my waitress and the server make the point that I should thoroughly mix the various parts of this dish before eating.

Wow! What a brilliant idea – this really works. You’ve got warm-cool, crispy-soft, bland-spicy, runny-dry, and lots of great flavors all happening in harmony. This was the big winner of the night. I was having more trouble picking a “Second Course”. I intended to go with the favorite of the NT Times reviewer, but it was no longer on the menu. I settled on something unusual (for me at least), “Anson Mills Creamy Grits with Smoked Hominy: avacado, queso fresco and roasted tomato-poblano salsa”. I surmised that this down-home, mid-America sounding dish would be just the ticket for my weekend theme - don’t accept New York as cutting-edge Mecca on reputation alone.

*** Well, this dish was fine, but it couldn’t keep up with the superior opening act.

After couple of bites, I did come to appreciate the simple comfort food that was the objective. But the dessert almost did measure up to the appetizer – “Black Cocoa Cake, with Chocolate-Bourbon Glaze: sweet chestnut filling and espresso ice cream”. (Like most of the rest of the world) I consider myself an authority on chocolate – this was great. And the big surprise was that the chef de cuisine herself, Amanda Cohen, served me. After a perfunctory inquiry about the meal, she mentioned that she noticed I was carrying the Times review. Given the fact that I had had this article tightly folded into the palm of my hand and was reading it very discreetly, Ms. Cohen’s observation really impressed me. And that says something else about Heirloom – people are paying attention to their diners. As a merchant myself, that virtually says it all.

On Saturday afternoon, I caught the R-train for Brooklyn and visited with Tom Toomey, certainly one of the finest California hat store managers of the 1980s. Tom was a pioneer in the, now full-blown, downtown San Diego renaissance when he managed The Village Hat Shop in the then new Horton Plaza. Many years after his tenure at the hat store, customers would regularly come in asking for and about him. After a long stint in Russia and surrounds, he has settled in the Park Slope section of Brooklyn and is following his passion for art – www.tcatdesigns.com. We took a long walk in his neighborhood and ultimately landed at Al Di La Restaurant. And what a good landing it was! Everything was top notch at this restaurant including the best entrée of the weekend, the truffles and ricotta ravioli.

Briefly: For an over-priced brunch at the Carnegie Deli you can get insulted by grumpy old-school waitresses at no extra charge. Dukes on Broadway in Midtown makes a good sandwich (hot or cold) highlighted by the bread.

And the winners are:
Heirloom – On Orchard Street near Houston in the East Village.
Al Di La – On the corner of 5th Avenue and Carrol in Park Slope, Brooklyn.

* I spent that afternoon at The Museum of Modern Art where a MOMA lecturer argued that the modern “art object” need not be beautiful, need not be skillfully executed, need not be tangible. Nothing mattered but “the idea” and that all ideas are fair game today with no cannons and no rules. She argued for a kind of relativism where all ideas are equal and nothing mattered other than if the art was “interesting”. She used examples of “artists” shooting themselves in the foot or nailing themselves to a Volkswagen as arguably having merit as art. She, the lecturer, refused to pass any judgments on these so-called works of art (or anything for that matter). In the end, it was hyper-academic drivel – really unnerving. I was left believing that this borough, where the St. Patrick’s Day parade organizers had refused to let gays and lesbians march, was in fact really as provincial as some argue. [But Heirloom, where something mattered, saved the day for Manhattan.]

** My philosophy professor friend (and a native New Yorker) argues that not eating animals is really quite conservative philosophy – anything but an eccentric stretch in thinking. For those of you still grappling with this question, ask yourself if your cousins should suffer so that they can be your food. Then realize that we are all animals differing only by some matter of degree.

*** I met Diane Feen, the editor of the yearly HAT LIFE Directory and bi-monthly HAT LIFE Newsletter at Bergdorf-Goodman, a NYC department store temple, for a visit to the men’s and women’s hat departments and lunch. Hats were way over-priced and their “lunch special” fussilli that I ordered was runny and tasteless (I think they opened a can of tomato sauce and poured it on poorly drained pasta – no kidding) - this was the worst meal I can remember eating at a restaurant in a long time ($18!). And, everywhere you looked, women were wearing full-length fur coats (okay with MOMA I guess, but it would be equally okay if I tossed a gallon of blood on these ignoramuses). What are these pathetic people thinking? This could never happen in California.

Fred Belinsky
VillageHatShop.comhttp://Berets.com
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Bobby Flay's Bar Americain in NYC is Elegant and Delicious

By Carine Nadel
Article Word Count: 535

Bobby Flay is a celebrity chef. Many times when someone reaches a high status within their career they lose some of what made them noticeable. Not so in this case!

My daughter and I were on a whirlwind 2 day trip to the Big Apple. We had wanted to have a special dinner to cap off a wonderfully, exhausting celebration of our two landmark birthdays (she had just turned 25 and I am crossing over to the big 50 at the end of the year). We noticed that Bar Americain was across the street from our hotel. We were fortunate enough to have had brunch in Flay's Mesa Grill in Las Vegas so we hoped this upscale brasserie would measure up to our first experience.

We were not disappointed. The atmosphere is quite elegant and serene. Warm wood walls, marble floors and dim lighting. The soaring ceilings and "loft" gave the room a feel of a 1940's dinner club. Even though we went at six o'clock, which is quite early for a New York dinner, there were quite a few parties seated. Our server was knowledgeable and when he heard about my dairy allergy he had the busboy bring over a basket of just out of the oven "safe" breads and drinks, promising to return momentarily with dinner suggestions.

He kept his word! Within five minutes our tuxedo clad server let me know which dishes could be prepared for my enjoyment. My daughter, who was fortunate enough to be able to chose anything on the menu went with a house favorite: a rack of pork with double apple butter and a balsamic vinegar and fig reduction sauce which included smashed potatoes with goat cheese. The pork had been marinated in a brine for 30 hours and came pink, juicy and according to my daughter was the best pork chop she had ever had and loved every bite of her side dish as well.

I had my choice of wild salmon (without the port wine reduction) or Floridian inspired red snapper encrusted in plantains and topped with a luscious and refreshing mango, corn and avocado salsa as it rested on a black bean puree. If my husband, who doesn't care for snapper, had been there-this was a dish he would have enjoyed-as did I. The plantain was quite thinly sliced on a mandolin and was just enough to give the moist fish a perfect crunch.

Before our main dishes, we also had to split an appetizer-Flay's signature spicy tuna tartare. We wanted to see if he used the same recipe as his Mesa Grill. It was very similar, but not as spicy. Which fit well with the elegant surroundings. The tuna was melt in your mouth fresh, icy cold with capers and cayenne.

My daughter loves tiramisu and saw someone at a nearby table having a portion and moaning in delight. She announced her intention to have one. However, by the time we split the appetizer and she had enjoyed every bite of her entree, she declared dessert officially out!

We may not have been able to see a Broadway show during our whirlwind weekend, but Bobby Flay's Bar Americain proved to be a delicious bit of memorable culinary theatre.

Carine Nadel is on The Reader's Advisory Panel of Woman's Day magazine and has had numerous articles and recipes published both on various websites and print publications.
To read more of her work, log onto: http://www.Carine-whatscooking.blogspot.com
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Soho's Corio - Not Your Run Of The Mill "Restaurant - Lounge"

By Casey Leblang

Manhattan surely isn’t short of restaurant-slash-lounge hybrids, and it seems more and more crop up each week. But a new gem in SoHo promises something fresh and unique for those jaded frequenters of the ubiquitous restaurant/lounge. Corio, which opened in September of 2006, is located on the corner of West Broadway and Grand and has much to offer for diners and partiers with varying tastes. The downstairs bar is casual and welcoming, but boasts a rather sophisticated drink menu that features the house specialty cocktails: “Blood,” “Sugar,” “Sex,” and “Magic,” after everyone’s favorite early 90’s Chili Peppers album.

Upstairs, relax on plush maroon sofas and converse while sampling Corio’s small plates such as the roasted candy beets and the amped-up lime butter bruschetta, or feast on the larger courses such as the hearty grilled hanger steak. The house white wine went perfectly with the organic field greens salad, which combines the light sweetness of black mission figs with Serrano ham and smoked paprika. And my friend with a remarkably discerning sweet-tooth declared the flourless chocolate cake to be “simply the best” dessert choice.

My personal experience at Corio was enhanced by its soundtrack—perfectly eclectic and ranging from funk and pop to the Smashing Pumpkins. Corio has a fun yet relaxing ambiance which is conducive to a night on the town with a group of friends, or also for an intimate date night. The sex appeal of Corio skyrockets when authentic Burlesque performers take the upstairs stage every forty-five minutes to an hour in five-minute sets. Corio is simultaneously classy and young, funky and chic, and definitely worth your time.

Check out their website: http://www.corionyc.com
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Magnolia Bakery - Southern Style Baking in West Manhattan

By Samantha Mitchell
Article Word Count: 599

If you're a cake decorator and have school age children, you've probably made more than your share of bake sale cupcakes. But have you heard about the cupcake sales at the Magnolia Bakery? This privately owned bakery is ringing up $40K per week from their cupcake sales alone. Now that's some bake sale!

If you ever visit Greenwich Village's legendary Bleecker Street, you'll likely find yourself drawn to the irresistible aromas emanating from Magnolia Bakery. The shops ovens work nonstop to feed countless droves of customers. And they're not there only for the cupcakes!

Other favorites at Magnolia Bakery include old-fashioned desserts such as their signature banana pudding (a trifle style concoction of vanilla cookies, chunks of banana and vanilla pudding), key lime pie with gingersnap crust, nectarine cobbler, bread pudding and a delightful Southern style confection called Hummingbird Cake: a yellow cake with banana, pineapple, pecans and a cream-cheese filling.

Magnolia Bakery was opened in 1996 by Allysa Torey and Jennifer Appel in the heart of Greenwich Village.
Magnolia brings a sweet Southern feel to Manhattan with cool key lime walls and background jazz, white hammered tin ceilings and retro kitchen utensils.

While the bakery specializes in 1950's style desserts and decor, complete with Ozzie and Harriet artifacts, the cupcakes came as an afterthought.

The first batch of cupcakes was created from a last minute thought to use some leftover cake batter rather than toss it, so the story goes. The cupcakes were iced in cheery, spring colors, and then set in the windowsill - where the cupcake craze began.

With all sorts of cupcake shops opening from New York to California, the Magnolia Bakery is widely believed to be the one that most influenced the trend. And sweet Magnolia, situated on of the most beautiful blocks in Manhattan's West Village, is still one of the most trendy cupcake stops in NYC.

While the Magnolia Bakery has quickly become popular with those hungry for sweet carbs and more socializing after a night on the town, it no longer caters to early birds. The staff needs this time to bake and decorate the thousands of cupcakes that are purchased daily. Approximately 20,000 are sold each week.

Hollywood helped cement the landmark status of Magnolia Bakery when episodes of both Saturday Night Live and Sex in the City were filmed there.

The Magnolia Bakery is now a regular stop for the Sex in the City tour buses that deliver fans eager to sample the same type of cupcakes that they watched Sarah Jessica Parker and her co-star Cynthia Nixon enjoy, one after another. These stylish cupcakes have even made Vogue.

And the Magnolia Bakery has become so popular with locals out on the town, that the late night weekend crowds line up for blocks away. This is credited to the comforting atmosphere and comfort food, as well as to the popularity brought by Parker and Nixon's cupcake scene.

In 2000, the Magnolia Bakery's original owners, who have since parted ways, saw their book, Magnolia Bakery Cookbook: Old-Fashioned Recipes from New York's Sweetest Bakery, published. This guide to Magnolia's secret recipes became a best seller.

Just a final note if you visit Magnolia Bakery (401 Bleecker Street, near West 11th Street in Greenwich Village) , don't fill up on cupcakes. Save some room for their signature Peanut Butter Heath Bar Blondie! One layer is sort of a peanut butter cookie and peanut brittle hybrid, and this is followed by a rich, buttery cake layer, and then its topped with a crunchy caramel toffee concoction. Don't eat peanuts? Try one of the desserts listed above.

Samantha Mitchell, Co-Author Cake Decorating Made Easy! Vol. 1 & 2 The World's First Cake Decorating Video Books For more cake decorating tips along with step by step videos, sign up for our free newsletter at CakeAnswers.com
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Side Dishes Steakhouse NYC Is The Ultimate Destination To Indulge In Some Great Food

By Neil Folley
Article Word Count: 527

Food…now tell me who can do without food and that also some great food like the ones you get in Steakhouse NYC. Steakhouse NYC is undoubtedly known for the steaks that they serve. The food from Steakhouse NYC has been a treat to whoever tasted it. It seems like people are completely crazy about the food and especially the steaks that they have to offer to the customers or rather the steak lovers. But if you thought they only specialize in steaks then you need to give this a second thought.

Steakhouse not only specializes in dishes like porterhouse steak or the heavily butter soaked lobster. Side dishes steakhouse NYC is also famous for the vivid variety of the side dishes they have in store for their precious customers. Steakhouse NYC has been known to serve the most tempting and delicious food and the side dishes steakhouse NYC offers are some of the best and luring ones. Just imagine……..your table being approached by a bowl of hot, spicy soup with a dripping cheese and the soup is your favorite French Onion soup.

Side dishes steakhouse NYC has many tempting dishes for you to choose from and these side dishes are bound to mesmerize your senses and you shall get drowned in the variety of the side dishes offered in a platter to you in steakhouse NYC. Restaurants and steakhouses are many in New York City but then you must be able to understand which steakhouse you would want to decide upon. Since the choice is vast, at times it becomes a little difficult to choose on the apt steakhouse NYC. In this case you should learn to follow your instinct. What I do in such a case is that I try and analyze my mood and then accordingly the kind of food I would want to indulge in. Once you know or rather understand your mood and the food you would want to indulge in you know which side dishes steakhouse NYC you would want to visit and get mesmerized. You can even decide on the wine that you would like to drink for the evening. This can also make you chose the right steakhouse NYC where you would like to go in for your dinner or to indulge in the various side dishes.

As a main course to the side dishes in steakhouse NYC there are various types of steaks you can find and the best part is that the variety offered is huge and they are always ready to complement your mood with the kind of steak you would want to have. If you are fond of rare cooked steak then you can always ask the steakhouse NYC to cook your steak rare. After all steak lovers have this concept that the juicier the steak, the more tempting and tasty they are. But some do prefer a more cooked steak and you can ask your steak to be more cooked. So having your favorite steak at the side dishes steakhouse NYC is not a huge issue. Moreover you can also get yourself some amazing and sumptuous side dishes along with your favorite steak.

Neil Folley holds a Masters Degree in Hotel Management.He loves good food and arranging private parties. To book for Sunday Parties and enjoy tasteful food at Side Dishes Steakhouse NYC visit www.markjosephsteakhouse.com
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A South Street Seaport Restaurant Could Be The Perfect Place To Unwind

By Neil Folley
Article Word Count: 512

In the hectic pace of our daily lives we welcome any opportunity that will help us unwind and relax our stressed mind, even if it is only for a short duration. A person, who can enjoy his meal in the proper ambience and in a relaxed manner without having to rush through his lunch hour or dinner time with a quick meal, truly feels rejuvenated. A true gourmet will not compromise with his food at any cost as a good meal served the proper way matters to him as much as the taste of the food itself. It is therefore very important to select the restaurant where you plan to have your meal with great care and a reference from friends or family is always helpful in such situations. A person staying at South Street Seaport in Manhattan or any place near to the place or perhaps someone who is simply visiting this place can vouch for the rejuvenating effect that a historical district can have on people.

The historical architecture of South Street Seaport rubs off on the people staying here and also on the visitors. The place seems to transport you back in time to the New York of mid 1800’s and you get a peek at life during the commercial maritime trade. The travel in time machine leaves you feeling soothed and relaxed and somewhere a need arises to be pampered to keep the feeling of relaxation intact. Imagine a mouth watering meal at a South Street Seaport restaurant – it will be royal treat for not only the stomach but the soul as well. A South Street Seaport restaurant caters to this need by not only providing excellent food that pampers your taste buds but also service par excellence that makes you feel special and gives you a sense of well being as well. The quaint cobblestone streets and scenic view of the Brooklyn Bridge add to the ambience of a South Street Seaport restaurant, whetting your appetite and making you look forward to a pleasurable luncheon or dinner experience.

A South Street Seaport restaurant offers a wide range of cuisine to choose from and specialty restaurants also line up this place to cater to every kind of taste. The staff is polite and courteous and well trained in helping a person with his choice of dishes to be ordered. A variety of side dishes available in most South Seaport Street restaurants perfectly compliment the main course and specialties served by the restaurant. Most restaurants also offer alcohol based drinks on their menu that help the patrons to relax and unwind with friends and family and add to the pleasure of dining out. The classy ambience and décor of the restaurants add to the experience and make the simple event of enjoying a meal a memorable one. So if you are visiting this place as a tourist it is advisable to take some references about a good South Street Seaport restaurant and be sure to include it in your itinerary when you go sightseeing in South Street Seaport.

Neil Folley holds a Masters Degree in Hotel Management. He loves good food and arranging private parties.To book for Sunday Parties and enjoy tasteful food at South Street Seaport Restaurant visit www.markjosephsteakhouse.com
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